Dotted Swiss

My Make Nine has pretty much gone off the rails, but I still decided to make a summer "weekend" dress.

This is the Given a Chance Dress from Decades Every Day, done in burgundy dotted Swiss. Lots of bang for the quick-to-sew buck, especially if you skip the pockets like I did.

For me dress pockets are a one-way ticket to bad posture instead of a design feature that accommodates my adventurous gamine lifestyle. Plus I remember my mother admonishing me to take my hands out of my pockets.

Speaking of my mother,  I still have the dotted Swiss dress that she made for my First Communion back in 1975. Because our parish was "progressive" we didn't wear veils and the host was home-baked verging on hardtack. I did however get a bakery cake with lots of icing roses so there's that.

Endless Summer #2

What happened to Endless Summer #1? I made it one size too big, so now I have a lovely double-gauze night shirt squished under my pillow.

This version is a size 39 (based on finished bust measurement), sewn from a black pin tuck voile that I bought at a local fabric store. I think it might be Robert Kaufman.

The leggings are the new-ish Pants No. 2 pattern from 100 Acts of Sewing, in an Art Gallery knit.

I wore this to my semi-annual one-on-one with the head of my organization (that's my boss's boss).  In my past lives this never would have flown as a work outfit, but I've seen her wear tunics and leggings with shiny metallic Fluevogs to work so I felt emboldened.

Tunics and leggings at work? Yay or nay?

Jalie 3880

It's been a while. I've been sewing but not blogging, mostly because I really do not enjoy posing in front of a tripod.

So it's back to selfies, this time at work and with a fancy-to-me phone.

This is Jalie 3880, one of their new patterns. It looks vaguely Japonesque or vaguely medical, depending on pose and choice of fabric. This is a drapey knit from Marcy Tilton. (The pattern specifies a "fluid knit with nice drape" but I think that it could look Jil Sander-y and sculptural in a ponte.)

The deep armholes are flattering and a nifty facing covers what needs to be covered. I'm tempted to take this silhouette up a notch and try A Verb for Keeping Warm's Uptown Top.

And speaking of Verb, tomorrow it's supposed to be 100 here so I'll be breaking out (and photographing) the Endless Summer Tunic I made last month.

Stay cool, people. And I mean literally.

Alberta Street Skirt

Pockets!!!!

Every so often, I shed my post-apocalyptic-Junior-League togs for date night.

I made Sew House Seven's Alberta Street Pencil Skirt with dates in mind (my office doesn't allow denim). The directions are incredibly clear and thorough. Based on the finished garment measurements I sewed a size 12. The pattern envelope suggests picking the size based on your body measurements, and tells you not to worry about the negative ease because of stretch fabric's girdling properties. But I chickened out. (The fabric is a deep indigo denim from Robert Kaufman.)

Before installing the waist facing I tried it on and marked the areas to take in. It measured 1/4" on each side: the difference between a 10 and a 12. D'oh! So now I have a size 10 skirt with size 12 pockets. Barely noticeable, but still....maybe follow directions.

Tamarack II

My local fabric store had a spring cleaning sale, so I bought a not-on-sale vintage kantha quilt to make a jacket. It has some permanent stains here and there but I'm okay with that.

I "fussy-cut" around this random patch.

 It consists of several layers of different fabrics sewn together with long running stitches. It was all I could do not to photograph all every single seam.

They'll remain unfinished because I love the layers and because I'm not trying to win any prizes at the state fair. I might or might not install hooks and eyes. Bias tape is Moda fabrics' Grunge in the Dauphine colorway.

This will be a warm weather commuting/errand-running jacket. It's colorful enough to take the edge off of New Mexico's beige and dusty spring but not so colorful that it makes me nervous.

Presto-Chango!

No but seriously Muffy. 

Happy Me-Made May, peeps!

It's a dress! Or is it.....

Readers, it's actually a skirt and top combo! My recent Jalie 2806 paired with view E of Jalie 2681, the eight-gored skirt, in the same calligraphic print. (Or Cali-graphic. Nothing but straight fire on this blog.)

 I'd still like to add an actual dress to my wardrobe, though.

In other news, the teen wore a t-shirt that I made! On her body, in public:

When your kid has a nicer phone than you do, with a better camera.
I'll catch up next month. 

10,000 Waves

This is yet another view of Jalie 2806, this time with gathered foldover and banded hem.

The material is sproing-y ITY knit from Cali Fabrics; the waves are deep blue. On a wardrobing note, this will replace the colorful printed top in my work module.

Years ago I read an interview with sewist Nancy Murakami where she says she's a "person in black, or PIB." It was probably back in 2010 or 2011, and  wish I could find it to share. I try to remember it whenever I feel pressured to add more color to my wardrobe.

My house is full of color, and I enjoy it. But when it comes to clothing I'm happiest as a Person in Mostly Neutrals.

Ann Shayne's color wheel from Mason Dixon Knitting

Cocooned

Mothra attacks!

This is Jalie's Cocoon Cardigan (#3353), sewn up in a dark gray cotton blend sweater knit from Cali Fabrics.

Still figuring out the tripod. I had a choice between dignity and a level photo and you can see what won out.

This was the first time I that wished I had a serger; maybe for the upcoming 5-0. I used Jalie's suggested method of zigzagging the very edges of the fabric and then sewing the .25 seam, which definitely looks more polished. Good thing, because the band flaps open now and then. Still love it though.

Zigzag + Straight Stitch

Topstitching the bands makes a big difference in how the final garment looks, and I'm surprised the instructions didn't include that step when they took the trouble to specify "pin[ning] generously."

But that's a pretty minor niggle for a great pattern. I could see a cold-weather version in merino knit.

Cropped head, funhouse angle outtake.

Speckles

Dayliiiight!!!!!

This is view A of Jalie 3245, sewn up in a spongilicious  knit  that Emma One Sock categorized under "Sweater Knits." (It seems super light and drapey for a sweater knit, unless we're talking about one of those sweaters that my mother disses whenever she laments the decline in quality at Talbots.)

But I digress...it was a great choice for this pattern, and the speckles and ribbing prevent vastwhitemonolithia. Unlike other Jalie patterns the neck is finished with binding instead of a band. I had my doubts, but my #10 edgestitch foot....took the edge off!

Bias neckline finish.
Necklace belonged to my husband's grandmother.
It's from the 1950s.

Hyar hyar. I'll be here all week--remember to tip your waitress.

Weekend Scrolls & Reads

Because celluloid swans!

This post  gives an interesting perspective on Indie vs. Big-4 pattern companies. My long-time favorite, Jalie, seems to be a hybrid of the two: A mother/daughter-owned company with the diligent drafting and cheesy photography offered by the Big 4.

I'd love to see this exhibit of Sylvia Plath's visual art, which I found via Meryl Streep's reading of Plath's poem "Morning Song." 

On Tuesday I took my daughter shopping for sneakers. When I pointed out a pair that I thought looked cool she told me they were hype beast shoes.

Buen Finde!

Make Nine & Jalie 2806

When I organized my wardrobe into capsules I noticed that I could use some solid-colored tops for work. So I'm counting this as one of my Make Nine projects, even though it wasn't in my Official Grid.

Who's got two thumbs and a tripod coming in the mail?

This girl!

The fabric is a drapey lyocell jersey from Emma One Sock.

At this point I'm mostly making things as I notice the need. Here's a loosey-goosey revision of my sorta-plans*.

*I'm not making a "PicLab." But I am too cheap to pay to make the app's logo go away. :)

Weekend Scrolls & Reads

Not much to share from the interwebs, unless you want to join me on helter-skelter stops across Ravelry or ponder capsule wardrobe templates.

So here are some snapshots of projects in process....

1 1/2 panels stitched on the Alabama Chanin swing skirt,
haven't begun to cut the reverse appliqué yet.  

Rondeur

Bert and Frances say "Happy Easter/Passover" to those who observe.

Buen Finde!

A Duo of Vogue 8151's

I chose to add that apostrophe for clarity. Just saying.

Vogue 8151 (OOP) is a t-shirt/sweatshirt/sweater hybrid. Like tofu it adapts to its ingredients. I made two recently, using fabrics from my double-knit bender at Emma One Sock.

The first one is a wool-blend ponte. Worn to a concert 2 weeks ago:

The second is made from a double-knit that's unlike anything I've ever encountered. Up close (as in squinting with magnifying glass) you can see the knitted construction, but it "reads" as a stretchy felted flannel. The finished darts gave me some pause and before I hemming I was ready to chuck it. In the end I feel I look very La Garconne. Or at least a la cinquantaine.

Have mirror; will travel to different parts of the house to shoot photos.
I need a better set up. 

Eleonore Version 1.a

No hands!

More gray pants--now with a lot less crotch radiation (there's just no delicate way to say that, is there?) and moderately less gap-osis.

I made a 2" swayback adjustment using Dawn's method and there's *still* a little gap. I'm thinking this fabric isn't snappy enough to stand up to stretching and gathering.

Saintly pose.
Top is 100 Acts of Sewing Shirt No. 1, btw.

Just whatever, man! I'm still pleased with how these turned out and I plan to make more, possibly with darts in the back waistband. Maybe an invisible hem too, to dress them up a bit. And a skinny pair...

Ahem. So that's one 2018 make nine done! Fingers crossed that my 5" size 5 dpns arrive today so that I can finish my Indicum sweater.

In the meantime, must. Resist. Eleonore. Rabbit. Hole.

Jalie Eleonore

Yesterday I staggered off of the roller coaster known as Sewing Pants. And I don't think I'm going to throw up!

Here is my un-hemmed Jalie Eleonore muslin, the first of my 2018 Make Nine projects:

They're a size X, even though the much-touted "wisdom of the table" recommends a size V based on my full hip measurement. (I traced and sewed a size V waistband and it felt small to me.)

The "cat whiskers" radiating across the front are the result of swayback:

Gap-osis, with hip wrinkles that disappear
 when I yank them up.

I'm hoping they'll look like this after I perform Dawn's swayback adjustment. I also plan to take some fullness out of the back of the knees.

Because I can't walk around holding
the back of my pants all day. 

Now that I'm over the delusion of creating a wearable pants muslin, I don't think I'll top stitch version 2. Although it's probably worth practicing the faux-fly detail again.

I can't wait to get started!

FO: Tamarack Jacket

This was the Beef Wellington of garment projects. I left nothing to chance: Muslin, test quilting, two practice welt pockets, basting basting basting. And I consulted every tutorial I could get my hands on: sewing in interfacing, shortening a separating zipper, installing a separating zipper.

I'm mostly happy with the result, especially since I had to "true" some of the edges after quilting. I've long wanted to make a Chanel-esque jacket and after the quilting on this project I can't decide whether it's feasible or totally insane.

But back to the Tamarack. I lengthened it by 5 inches or so, and installed a separating zipper instead of hooks or snaps. Main fabric is Moda Grunge in Onyx, lining is Alexander Henry, bias trim is Wright's, pockets are Kona black, and batting is Warm and Natural.

Lining is "Sisters of the Golden Temple"

Chevron quilting on the back

The quilting design is a deliberate imitation of Isabel Marant's Coby coat:

Karen has touched on the murkiness surrounding home-sewn copies. I'm rationalizing my actions with this quote from Yohji Yamamoto:

“Start copying what you love. Copy copy copy copy. At the end of the copy you will find yourself.”

I did not find myself, but I did affirm my love of textured neutrals.


Now on to make nine 2018!

Progress!

Grainline Tamarack
Pockets have been welted; binding has been applied; seams have been sewn and finished. Time to stop freaking out and install the zipper already.

Indicum Sweater
The first of my #2018makenine projects. Oh, the short rows. Nearly finished with the yoke, and feeling like some kind of color work genius what with the corrugated ribbing.


2018 SVE
"Seasonal" aisles everywhere are hawking red-foiled candy bars so it must be time for the Secret Valentine Exchange! One of Sanae's "Important Points" emphasizes using materials that you already have on hand, so my indigo-and-nature-loving recipient will get gifties made from these:

This is kind of a departure for me--I usually only have 2 projects going, max: one sewing; one knitting. 2018 is off to a wild and crazy start.

Make Nine 2018

My IG handle is @plain_jane_doe_45

After I finish my Tamarack.....

First Row:

Jalie Eleonore pants. I own the pattern and have high hopes based on the many positive reviews I've read. Fabric? Who knows. Unable to think past the muslin.

 

Indicum pullover. This is the only project for which I have materials, Knit Picks Capretta in cream. The three sweaters I own are all cardigans, so this will get a lot of wear. 

Grainline Lark tee. My go-to pattern has been Deer & Doe's Plantain, but the fabric really needs to have *just* the right drape. I'm thinking this design will work with the snappier knits that are more widely available.


Second Row: 

100 Acts of Sewing Pants No. 1. I made a pair of these in black eyelet last summer and they fit right out of the envelope. I'll make at least one more pair, this time in peppered cotton or brussels washer.

Blueprints for Sewing A-Frame Skirt. Leaning towards denim, inspired by the skirts in the new Eileen Fisher collection. I own one skirt and this will be a much-needed addition.

A Verb for Keeping Warm Prism dress. Maybe double gauze? I own one dress, of the cocktail-y variety, so an "everyday" dress will be another gap-filler.


Third Row:

A Verb for Keeping Warm Endless Summer Tunic or 100 Acts of Sewing Dress No. 3 . Looking for a casual "uniform" for our blistering summers.

A Verb for Keeping Warm Nell shirt. Yay, popovers! Boo, buttonholes! A fear I really ought to confront. Next year! Looking at Brussels washer.

TBD. Contenders, all knitting: Rondeur, Kitty's Chemise, Jasseron, Turtleneck Jacket. 

visible mending: gray cardigan

I picked up a great vintage cardigan back in October. It's 100% merino with a substantial drape and smart pockets. Recently I snagged it on the edge of drawer and it developed two teeny-tiny holes (the larger was ~ .5").

Inspired by the works of Tom of Holland and Celia Pym, I decided to make this my first visible mending project.  (Recommended: a tutorial from everyone's favorite white-collar felon.) I used a variegated perle cotton, size 8.

I feel comfortable wearing the finished product out on errands, but not necessarily to my casual-ish non-profit workplace (although the head of the organization would probably think it was cool). I'm not exactly sure why that is. Maybe because my two relatively small repairs look like, well, repairs, instead of the deliberate-seeming ornamentation I've admired on holey-er garments like this one:

photo: Rebecca Earley

Or maybe I just need to own the look instead of waiting for a plague of moths.

Would you wear visible mending to the office? 

goals

photo: focus..damn it!

Eating
-Just get back to normal. [Remember that a day with out Christmas cookies and bourbon-spiked eggnog does not equal starvation rations.]

Shopping 
-Don't, at least until April. I have a relatively small amount of debt and there's no reason it shouldn't be paid off by the end of the first quarter.
-Exceptions:  Fabric for the Jalie Eleonore pattern that's been sitting on my sewing table, and supplies (zipper and bias tape) to finish my in-progress Tamarack jacket. Which brings me to....

Creating 
-Find that ever-elusive balance between product and process. I primarily wear neutrals, so maybe don't knit any more brightly-colored lace shawls.

These only see the light of day when I open my closet.

Instead focus on useful things, like this Tamarack:

Quilting the back. 

Listening
-Pay attention and listen deeply. Notice when my mind wanders to my Ravelry queue or mountain of laundry or diet coke.


Onward and upward!